Surf is My Religion, Part 2

My pulse quickens as we enter the ocean, chilly with not much sun above us.  A beautiful big fish flies out of the water, they must be in shock we are back, the human invasion of surfboards and fins gliding through their waters.

Our home beach, Playa Guiones, opened up today. For real!  Romeo, my teenage son and I were out surfing at first light.

It was crowded but everyone was in super high spirits.  I heard things said never by a surfer, “I’m so happy to be here, I don’t even care about the waves.”

Then I was struck by this conversation:

Old Dude:  Hey Jen, is this your first time here surfing Guiones in the last two months?

Me:  Yes, I played by the rules.

Old Dude:  Not me, I broke all the rules, I surfed every day until I got caught. It was perfect waves with only like five people in the water ever.

Me: (thinking, stay calm, Jen )  Good for you.

Old Dude:  Yeah, I waited a week after I got busted, then I couldn’t take it anymore so I started surfing really early, it was amazing, the best waves all to myself.

Me : (thinking, no judgement, no shaming) Can I just say, F*ck you a little?!

I’m happy for you but don’t rub it in.  Then I realized people must hate me for posting all these positive vibes from Costa Rica.

I apologize if my posts offend or annoy you.  I feel so blessed and grateful to be here during this pandemic in paradise.

I cry when I read the news.  Being from Virginia, I’ve witnessed injustices, I have had to explain so much to my son who grew up pretty free from racism here in Costa Rica.  He is half Latino and we are proud of it.  It’s cool to be local, brown skin is sexy, and words like Moreno and Negrita carry a positive feeling here.

I don’t know what to say but I feel so sad for everything happening in the states and everyone affected by it.  Now with the beaches open here, it’s like we are living in the best of times, during the worst of times.

I’m so sorry if my happy posts are too much, you can tell me to “F*ck off a little” but please know, what I share is designed to spread a little love, light and happiness to your day. 


Pura Vida,

Xoxoxox Jen Stone

1 comment


    Pura Vida.

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